Monday, May 18, 2009

take II on Monrovia

I’m sitting in the back of the car as we drive through Monrovia’s streets. Even though it’s only 7:30 pm, it’s pitch black outside and the horn is continually being sounded as people, taxis, and other cars get too close. It’s not overly congested, really, it’s just that there is great variation in the state of repair on the roads (occasionally calling for big swerves), and in folks’ interpretation of traffic best pract
ice. 
They drive on the right-hand side of the street here – as long as there’s not a compelling reason to be on the left. If I end up moving here, I’m definitely going to have way too much fun with the driving side of things. I like the idea of honking a lot, and without any particular malice.
Last night I w
as overwhelmed as I posted here. Understandable, hopefully, but I was tired and unhappy and wishing I wasn't in a place where you are SUPPOSED to be untrusting and suspicious of everyone around. I don't want my pocket picked, but I also don't want to be thinking that it's a possibility with any stranger I encounter. That's no way to live! Today was far, far better.
It started off great – we met Gladys, our host for the week, and Abee, our driver. Gladys met Abee over a year ago, and likes to employ him as driver when they need one as he’s very safe. Gladys is married to George, who is Mustafa’s primary contact in Liberia. He’s already done quite a bit of work for Shelter, and will probably be Shelter’s first employee in the country. He’s in the States right now, raising funds for a youth program that he and Gladys are running, so he char
ged her with looking after us while we’re
 in the country. She is beautiful and soft-spoken and very resourceful. She’s helped us connect with folks and found us a guest house out of the city to stay in that is wayyy cheaper ($30/night instead of $100 plus) , cleaner/safer-feeling, PLUS it has an incredible ocean view which (of course) has me beside myself with happiness. 
Today was our day to meet up with Ellen Johnson Sirleaf’s son, Rob Sirleaf. And that’s exactly what we did! A cavalcade of 3 cars – a police car, Rob’s Lexus, and an SUV (with a bodyguard - complete with ear piece and shades) in which we rode – picked us up at the hotel and took us to a simple (but very nice) café-type place for lunch. Rob was down to earth and funny, and we had a relaxed meal and great discussion. With him was Mohommed, a secretary-smart details-managing sort of person. Mustafa was able to explain the agriculture project that Shelter is planning to bid for, and Rob and Mohammed asked many good questions. Next we went to the Ministry of Agriculture where we had to wait for security clearance and then were ushered into this circular room with a huge table. There we met the Minister of Agriculture, and several assistant ministers of other departments.  We spent considerable time there as Mustafa answered their questions and asked questions of his own. They made recommendations for two specific counties where it will probably be ideal to run the project. 
We’ll try to visit both counties some time this week, and the ministers will set up time with the superintendents of those counties to be able to meet up with farmers and see the areas. 
The day also included purchasing a cell phone, getting groceries, and other various meanderings about the capital. I like Liberia 10 times more today than I did yesterday - and it has everything to do with meeting and connecting with concerned people.
Picture 1: Mustafa & Gladys by the Nido - had to share the pic with those of you who have backpacked with me!
Picture 2: near our guest house, this evening, with Abee and Gladys
Picture 3: Mohammed, Rob Sirleaf, me and Mustafa